BENI CULTURALI CERCHIARA DI CALABRIA

BENI CULTURALI CERCHIARA DI CALABRIA

Santuario di Santa Maria delle Armi

Descrizione

Il santuario di Santa Maria delle Armi è tra i più pregevoli complessi monumentali, di origine medievale, della Calabria. Si trova nel territorio di Cerchiara di Calabria alle pendici del monte Sellaro a 1015 m s.l.m. con vista straordinaria sulla pianura di Sibari e sul golfo di Taranto. Titolo Madonna delle Armi deriva dal greco Των αρμων (Tōn armōn) ossia “delle grotte, degli anfratti”. L’odierno santuario sorge su un antico sito monastico bizantino, alle pendici del monte Sellaro, anche noto come monte santo. Già nel X secolo si ha notizia nella Vita di san Saba di un monachus ascetarii Armon (un monaco proveniente dall’ascetario delle Armi) e, poco distante, dell’esistenza del celebre monastero bizantino di Sant’Andrea, guidato dagli abati (egùmeni) Pacomio e san Gregorio da Cerchiara. Nel 1192 una ricca donazione in greco di un facoltoso cerchiarese, Gervasio Cabita, menziona, tra gli altri beneficiari, il monastero femminile di Santa Maria delle Armi e la sua chiesa. Nel corso del XV secolo, dopo un probabile periodo di abbandono, la chiesa è di nuovo meta di pellegrinaggio. Nel 1517 il vescovo di Cassano, Marino Tomacelli di Napoli, con bolla ufficiale, dona il giuspatronato della chiesa alla Universitas Civium Circlarii (l’allora comune di Cerchiara) per aver eseguito importanti lavori di ristrutturazione. Da allora anche i signori di Cerchiara, i principi Sanseverino di Bisignano e i Pignatelli di Cerchiara, incrementarono con le proprie offerte il complesso monumentale (da un edificio loggiato agli altari settecenteschi, dagli affreschi alla cappella della Madonna). Il santuario è stato una Pia Casa di Carità sino ai primi decenni del XVIII secolo, dedito soprattutto ad accogliere e istruire orfanelli e persone indigenti (da qui i cognomi Dell’Armi e Cerchiara). L’antica leggenda vuole che nel 1450 alcuni cacciatori di Rossano videro una cerva infilarsi in una piccola grotta del monte Sellaro. Giunti al suo interno non videro più la cerva ma due icone lignee raffiguranti i Santi evangelisti. I cacciatori, meravigliati del prodigio, portarono le tavolette nella loro città, a Rossano. Qui però le tavolette sparirono ripetutamente per essere poi sempre ritrovate nel luogo del loro rinvenimento. Si decise quindi di edificare una piccola cappella che le custodisse. Durante i lavori, un fabbro indispettito da una pietra ovale, inservibile al suo scopo, la quale gli capitava sempre tra le mani, la ruppe con un colpo deciso. Questa si aprì in due: da un lato l’immagine della Madonna con il Bambino e dall’altra San Giovanni Battista. La prima è custodita gelosamente ancora in una cappella con marmi policromi all’interno della chiesa, l’altra fu trafugata e, secondo una tradizione, trasportata a Malta. La festa religiosa della Madonna delle Armi cade il 25 aprile. Caratteristica è la processione che, tra antichi inni alla Vergine, si snoda lungo i sentieri montuosi per poi far ritorno al Santuario. In questo giorno, numerosi devoti, dopo aver partecipato alle sacre funzioni, sono soliti sostare negli antistanti boschi, dove organizzando allegri bivacchi, danzano al suono di caratteristici strumenti. Questa festività è stata istituita nel 1846 a seguito di una grazia ottenuta dagli abitanti di Cerchiara per intercessione della Madonna: la salvezza del raccolto, messo in pericolo dalla calura. Il 25 aprile di quell’anno, i fedeli organizzarono una processione per chiedere l’intervento della Madre di Dio, che intervenne subito. Da allora, con apposito patto scritto, la gente festeggia la sua protettrice in questo giorno. La festività è inoltre denominata “Dei vinticinche”, per distinguerla da quella che si tiene la domenica di Pentecoste, detta appunto “Vinticoste”, in cui i fedeli usano festeggiare la Solennità con sagre di prodotti tipici. Dal Cinquecento il santuario è gestito direttamente dai rappresentanti della comunità civica di Cerchiara. Nella migliore tradizione delle laiche fabbricerie, oggi viene diretto da una Fondazione riconosciuta e regolarmente iscritta all’elenco speciale della Regione Calabria. All’interno della chiesa, nella cappella alla sinistra della navata centrale (nota oggi come Cappella Pignatelli), una lapide di marmo ricorda la sepoltura del principe Valerio Pignatelli di Cerchiara (Chieti, 19 marzo 1886 – Sellia Marina, 6 febbraio 1965), straordinario e discusso personaggio, autore, tra l’altro, di numerosi romanzi ambientati in epoca napoleonica, aventi come protagonista l’antenato Andrea Pignatelli di Cerchiara, ufficiale al seguito di Gioacchino Murat.

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Chiesa di Sant’ Antonio da Padova

Descrizione

Fu edificata nel 600 per volontà del Marchese di Cerchiara, il principe Fabrizio Pignatelli L’edificio in stile barocco è annesso all’antico Convento degli Osservanti. La chiesa custodisce una croce processionale d’argento del XVIII sec, proveniente dal Santuario di Santa Maria delle Armi, inoltre è presente una croce reliquia d’argento del XVII e un cassone di sagrestia del XVII sec.

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Chiesa di S. Pietro

Descrizione

Edificio quattrocentesco, restaurato in età successiva; interno trinavato, di originaria architettura rinascimentale; nave sinistra con volta sorretta da arcate a schema particolare (quattro archi a sesto romanico, arco mediano a sesto ogivale); altare marmoreo, decorato a tarsie. L’attuale campanile ricostruito nel 1920 sorge nello stesso punto del vecchio costruito nel 1766 e crollato nel novembre del 1908. Dipinti su tela: La Circoncisione di N.S. molte figure intorno al vecchio Simeone e alla Vergine che assiste, con una gloria di angioli, al rito. Scuola napoletana del sec. XVIII. Madonna con Bambino avente ai piedi in adorazione S. Marco e S. Matteo. Buona conservazione. Maniera del fine secolo XVIII.Madonna del Rosario con intorno i Misteri, in ricca cornice lignea dorata. Tanto i dipinti che la cornice sono di arte provinciale del barocco. La cattura di S. Pietro e Paolo: composizione scenografica, colorito e maniera della pittura napoletana, seconda metà del settecento. In un angolo della tela è il ritratto del donatore di questa pala d’altare, mons. Francesco Maria dei duchi Pignatelli, cardinale nel 1794. il dipinto,collegato all’altare maggiore è in una ricca cornice lignea proveniente da altra cappella. Bene conservato. Scuola napoletana del XVIII. Paramenti Sacri di manifattura settecentesca napoletana in buono stato di conservazione. Argenterie: ostensorio di argento, a due pezzi, con figura di Angiolo come sostegno della raggiera.

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Ruderi del “Castello Feudale”

Descrizione

“Il castello risalente al XVI sec. ha forma irregolare e sovrasta l’abitato con i suoi poderosi ruderi”. Una delle torri a forma poligonale lascia dedurre che la sua costruzione sia stata opera dei normanni. Il castello non ebbe una semplice funzione difensiva, ma divenne invece centro amministrativo, la famiglia Chiaromonte lo ristrutturò e lo ampliò, successivamente divenne dimora dei vari signori del luogo, appartenne infatti ai Della Marra, ai Sanseverino, ai Borgia, ai Carafa e ai Pignatelli. Il primo impianto è del 300 edificato su una precedente struttura longobarda – normanna, come lascia intendere la tipica posizione arroccata. Fu rimaneggiato nel 500 dai Chiaramonte e per secoli fu per Cerchiara il centro del potere feudale, oltre il baluardo di difesa. È stato proprietà dei Marra, dei Sanseverino, dei Borgia, dei Carafa, dei Chiaramonte e dei Pignatelli, che furono gli ultimi a dimorarvi nel 600 quando edificarono la nuova residenza feudale il Palazzo della Piana.

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Museo del Pino Loricato

Descrizione

Si trova nel corso principale, È dedicato al Pino Loricato il più noto “abitante” e simbolo del Parco Nazionale del Polino, di cui il territorio di Cerchiara di C è part integrante. Il museo raccoglie molte informazioni su questa specie con reparti, foto, e pannelli didattici.

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Museo del Pane

Descrizione

È dedicato ad uno dei prodotti tipici più rinomati e conosciuti di Cerchiara di C. il pane di Cerchiara. È situato nell’area più antica dell’abitato, ospitato in un antico mulino 800entesco.  All’interno è possibile ammirare gli attrezzi originali “utilizzati” da figure umane a grandezza naturale, impiegati nel processo di lavorazione del pane, del grano ala realizzazione della pagnotta.

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La piana di Cerchiara

Descrizione

Gli ultimi signori feudali di Cerchiara sono stati i Pignatelli che, per aver trovato inabitabile il castello, costruirono, nel 1600, una nuova dimora in località piana di cerchiara, alla sinistra del Torrente Caldanello. Per la imponenza della costruzione e le superstrutture signorili, venne chiamato fin da allora, Palazzo della Piana. La costruzione quadrilatera con un ampio cortile al centro è stata affiancata allatorre costruita da mastro Angelo Capoccia nel 1547, come attesta una sua iscrizione, allorché Carlo V aveva dato disposizione di difendere le coste calabresi, contro i turchi con torri di avvistamento e di difesa. Attorno al palazzo si costruirono il mulino, il frantoio ed il forno, dove la gente poteva recarsi a chiedere, alle condizioni del tempo il servizio di molitura del grano e delle olive o quello della cottura del pane. Per evitare l’impiego di molta manodopera il Marchese utilizzo l’acqua della caldana, poiché generalmente i contadini macinavano con mole di piccole dimensioni, girate a braccia o fatte girare da un animale, e così creò a suo favore una continua fonte di guadagno ed una maggiore e più estesa dipendenza. A questi servizi di origine feudale i Pignantelli fecero seguire una delle prime industrie agricole della Calabria, quella della liquirizia, e la collegarono con quella di Corigliano, di proprietà della famiglia feudale Saluzzi, con cui erano entrati in parentela. Il prodotto era tra i migliori sulla piazza di Londra, poiché il foglio commerciale di Londra, “morning Cronich” lo qualificava “eccellente per la purezza ed il colorito”. Con questa industria le cui strutture murarie ancora esistono con il caratteristico fumaiolo che svetta tra gli ulivi spento e solitario, si era creata una buona fonte di guadagno per la famiglia Pignatelli. Quando entro la ferrovia statale jonica per Torre Cerchiara, allora fu costruita anche una mini-ferrovia, dal Palazzo allo Scalo, struttura in un binario ridotto e un carrello tirato da cavallo. Il suo conducente “il carrellaro” e, oltre al servizio di merci, occasionalmente faceva anche quello di passeggeri. Nell’ultimo secolo, vicino al Palazzo è stato costruita anche la chiesetta privata dei Pignatelli che dal 1957 è divenuta parrocchia indipendente e, nel 1878 è stata completamente restaurata ed ingrandita. Nel 1925 il Palazzo con tutti i suoi possedimenti, passo al Barone Compagna da Corigliano che si affretto a sistema sul portone il suo stemma gentilizio raffigurante il leone rampante.

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Grotte delle Ninfe

Descrizione

Di grande importanza sono anche le sorgenti della Grotta delle Ninfe, le cui acque sulfuree alimentano l’omonimo complesso termale. Nella suggestiva grotta, le cui pareti di roccia calcarea si aprono, in alcuni punti, verso il cielo, si è creata una piscina di acqua calda (30 °C), già nota agli antichi Sibariti. Qui si formano fanghi dalle proprietà terapeutiche. Secondo l’antica leggenda, la Grotta delle Ninfe Lusiadi era l’antro nascosto che custodiva il talamo della mitica Calipso.

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Grotta Panno Bianco

Descrizione

Si trova nei pressi del santuario Santa Maria delle Armi, Al suo interno presentata interessanti formazioni di stalattiti e stalagmiti.

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Grotta della Serra del Gufo

Descrizione

 È tra le più note cavità naturali dell’alto ionio cosentino. È profonda 139 mt. E presenta planimetrico di circa 1200 mt. All’interno si riscontrano ambienti molto diversi tra loro tra cui pozzi saloni e cunicoli, ricchi di spettacolari concrezioni calcitiche che le conferiscono un fascino particolare.

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Gola del Caldanello

Descrizione

Detta la Gravina è il canyon che si trova allle pendici del Monte Sellaro. Il canyon è stato generato dall’effetto erosivo del Torrente Caldanello che nei millenni ha scolpito un incantevole scenario naturale.

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Chiesa di San Giacomo Martire

Descrizione

Fu eretta nel XV sec.  Anche se l’attuale aspetto risale al XVIII sec.  Conserva un interessante “altare del Crocifisso” scolpito dall’artista toscano G. Cappellini nel 1878; quattro grandi tele raffiguranti la Gloria di Santa Barbara del 1700, la Presentazione al Tempio di Maria, la Visitazione di autore sconosciuto ‘600 e la Madonna di Costantinopoli di epoca bizantina. Vero gioiello della reliquia della Santa Croce, custodita in un teca.

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Abisso del Bifurto

Descrizione

È un profondo inghiottitoio che scende in verticale verso le viscere della terra per 683 mt. Questa enorme voragine conferisci il 40° posto nella graduatoria delle grotte più profonde del mondo a secondo gli speleologi è una delle cavità più difficili del sud Italia.

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Voragine delle Balze di Cristo

Descrizione

Include  un “pozzo” di ben 88 metri di profondità.

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Palazzo della Piana

Descrizione
Questo imponente e signorile palazzo sorse nel 1600 intorno ad una torre preesistente fatta edificare nel 1547 in ottemperanza agli ordini di Carlo V di edificare torri di avvistamento lungo tutti i litorali del regno.

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Rifugio Calvario – Rifugio Caserma forestale

Descrizione
Sito vicino al centro storico, con 10 posti letto è  immerso in un paesaggio tipicamente montano, tra boschi di conifere e di lecci. Punto panoramico.

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Parco della Cessuta

Descrizione

Il Parco Comunale archeologico-speleologico della Cessuta, nei pressi del Santuario di S. Maria delle Armi, offre sentieri ed itinerari di grande suggestione, che si dipanano tutt’intorno fino alla cima del Sellaro (1439 m). Esso racchiude l’intero centro abitato e si estende su circa 300 ettari di bosco in cui ammirare bellissimi esemplari di oleandro (nerium oleander), cerro (quercus cerro), leccio (quercus ilex), farnetto (quercus frainetto) e molte altre specie.
Il Parco ricade interamente sul versante orientale del monte Sellaro ed è a sua volta compreso nel Parco Nazionale del Pollino. La zona è completamente attrezzata di aree pic-nic (50 tavoli in totale sparsi nelle località Acqua Rossa, Venaglie, Calvario e Bifurto) per offrire ai turisti la possibilità di entrare in contatto diretto con la natura.
Tra le strutture realizzate, i rifugi Calvario (vicino al centro storico, con 10 posti letto), e l’ex Caserma Forestale (completamente ristrutturata – già organizzata per la cucina – che offre 27 posti letto) costituiscono il fiore all’occhiello di tutto il parco. Il primo si raggiunge dal centro abitato, trovandosi molto vicino al paese, e il secondo si raggiunge da località Bifurto, lungo la Provinciale che porta al Santuario. Da essi, percorrendo i sentieri podistici-multiuso, si giunge al Santuario di S. Maria delle Armi, alla vetta del monte Sellaro e alla Grotta delle Ninfe.
In località Calvario – uno dei punti di partenza del percorso – il rifugio, benché situato a ridosso del centro abitato, è propriamente immerso in un paesaggio tipicamente montano, tra boschi di conifere e di lecci. L’attrattiva di questi luoghi selvaggi sprona anche i più pigri a cimentarsi in escursioni lungo questi itinerari che, snodandosi lungo la gola, conducono al centro abitato e ai quali si accede da diversi siti pittoreschi (Grotta delle Ninfe, Ponte Gravina, Calvario) e dal paese stesso.
La percorrenza di questi tracciati sinuosi, aperta a tutti, è piuttosto sicura giacché sono protetti da staccionate in legno e, nei punti più scoscesi, il tragitto è facilitato da una ferrata: un cavo d’acciaio ancorato alla roccia, cui reggersi per proseguire il cammino. Immettendosi nel sentiero dalla Grotta delle Ninfe, si percorrono circa sei chilometri straordinariamente panoramici; oppure si può entrare dal Ponte Gravina, sulla Statale 92, attraversando la gola su percorsi tortuosi per circa cinque chilometri. Avviandosi dal Calvario il tratto è più breve, solo due chilometri, ma è senza dubbio questo il punto più spettacolare. Da qui, con lo sguardo, si racchiude l’intero scenario. Se invece si accede da Cerchiara, partendo dalla Via Gravina, si percorre un chilometro scendendo a strapiombo attraverso una ferrata fin quasi al greto del torrente, per poi risalire, sempre nel centro abitato, nei pressi del Municipio.
Esiste, inoltre, una spettacolare ferrata che partendo dal greto del torrente, ai piedi del castello, giunge fino ai ruderi dello stesso, con un dislivello di 200 metri a strapiombo. Un percorso riservato solo ad esperti.

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Monastero di S. Andrea

Descrizione
Ruderi del Monastero di S. Andrea di epoca bizantina. Edificato intorno al ‘950 venne retto agli inizi dal monaco Pacomio e poi da Gregorio da Cassano.

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Punti Panoramici

Abisso della Gravina – Costa S. Marco – Serra di Paola 
Piano di Acquafredda dove i faggi assumono forme particolarmente contorte tanto da meritarsi l’appellativo di “alberi serpenti”.

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Palazzi Storici

Palazzo Pistocchi – Palazzo Lupinacci – Palazzo Stigliano

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