PRODOTTI TIPICI CASSANO ALLO IONIO

PRODOTTI TIPICI CASSANO ALLO IONIO

I piatti tipici della gastronomia locale non si discostano molto dalle caratteristiche della cucina calabrese in particolare e, più in generale meridionale. L’olio, le verdure, i legumi e la pasta fatta in casa, sulla tavola dei cassanesi abbondano. La cucina di Cassano tiene insieme le ricette tradizionali tramandate da madre in figlia, e dei prodotti di una terra generosa.

Primi piatti

Di sicuro i “maccaruni cu’ firritt” (maccheroni al ferretto) conditi con il sugo di capretto e ricotta salata, occupano un posto di rilievo nella cucina tradizionale del paese. Ma non sono da meno anche la “lagane e ciciri” (tagliatelle fatte in casa e ceci), gli spaghetti con le sarde o con le alici e la mollica di pane, la pasta con i broccoli, gli gnocchi sia con le patate, sia semplici preparati con farina e acqua calda.

Secondi piatti e altro

Tra i secondi piatti di cane ricordiamo la carne di capretto, di agnello e di castrato. Fra le carni bianche, a farla da padrone è il coniglio alla cacciatora.  Tra i secondi piatti di pesce, il primo posto lo meritano di sicuro il baccalà o stoccafisso con le patate. “Cancariddri fritt cu’ gove e zazizz” (peperoni fritti con uova e salsiccia), è un piatto principe della tradizione culinaria di Cassano. Forse non sarà molto salutare ma, di sicuro, è una vera delizia. Così come difficilmente un cassanese si contiene davanti ai “Frittuli” (parti del maiale che restano dopo aver tolto tutta la parte nobile da utilizzare per salsicce soppressate). E che dire della “Gelatina”? Una vera leccornia preparata con lo stinco del maiale, le cotiche, le orecchie, foglie di alloro peperoncino piccante e aceto di vino bianco.

Il caviale cassanese è “a’ sardiceddra”, ossia il bianchetto lavorato con la polvere di peperoncino, irrinunciabile negli antipasti. Ma con il bianchetto a Cassano si fanno anche gustose frittelle. Tipica della tradizione culinaria cassanese è anche “a pitta n’chiusa”, una sorta di pizza fatta con la pasta del pane ripiena di verdura o peperoni. Fra i contorni più antichi, la menzione d’onore va a “i’ paten mpacchiuse“, patate mpacchiuse, fritte con poco olio in modo che le patate tagliate a fettine sottili, si attacano fra loro.  Tra i formaggi il più tipico è il “caciocavallo”; il “butirro”, una piccola provola che nasconde al suo interno un cuore burro; il pecorino dal sapore forte e piccante.

Dolci

I dolci riguardano soprattutto le tradizioni pasquali e natalizie. A Pasqua sulla tavola non può mancare “u’ tortano” con le uova. Questo pane di Pasqua dalle forme più variegate, si consumato durante il pranzo pasquale e nelle scampagnate di Pasquetta con salsiccia, soppressata e la tipica frittata con asparagi. I “tortani” più piccoli si chiamano “cuzzuli”. Ovviamente c’è anche la versione dolce ed è la treccia Pasquale. Sempre con le uova incastonate che devono essere, come tradizione vuole, sempre in numero dispari e ricoperta di confettini e codine colorate. Il Natale cassanese è caratterizzato da varie leccornie. In questo periodo, infatti, si preparano dolcetti dai gusti più vari: la “cicerata”, ottenuta da piccoli “ceci” di pasta frolla ricoperti di miele; la “giurgiulena“, una specie di torrone composto di semi di sesamo e miele; i “scaliddre” e, infine, i “cannariculi”, tocchetti di pasta frolla farciti con miele o mosto cotto. A queste delizie si aggiungo le “Crocette” (i crucette), realizzate con fichi secchi, cannella, zucchero, noci (a volte mandorle) e scorzette di limone o di arancio. Infine, a Cassano non è domenica se a fine pranzo non ci sono i Sospiri (i cannistredde), tipico dolcetto delle spose perché queste piccole golosità di soffice pan di spagna farcite con crema, sono interamente ricoperte di glassa bianca.

CASSANO CITTÀ DELL’OLIO

A proposito de “l’arte di fare l’olio” di Cassano All’Ionio, lo scrittore, giornalista, oleologo Luigi Caricato autore di diversi volumi dedicati all’olio extra vergine di oliva, ci regala una chicca tratta dal libro “Il Regno delle due Sicilie descritto e illustrato, ovvero descrizione topografica, storica, monumentale, industriale, artistica, economica e commerciale delle province poste al di qua e al di là del faro e di ogni singolo paese di esse. Opera dedicata alla maestà di Ferdinando II, volume primo, Napoli, Stabilimento tipografico di Gaetano Nobile”:

Gli oliveti non sono pochi, e di non piccola estensione; anzi non v’è anno che non s’impiantino ulivi nelle opportune contrade, massime in quelle della Caccianova, ove prontamente l’albero sacro a Minerva sviluppa e cresce. Da poco tempo in qua alcuni agricoltori pugliesi hanno introdotto un nuovo sistema e migliore di potazione di questa pianta, che non tenevasi per lo passato; mediante il quale gli ulivi si educano non molto alti, i rami si fanno crescere chiomati verso il suolo, e così rimangono meglio difesi dai venti e dalle intemperie, e la raccolta del frutto si rende più facile, e molto più abbondante. I nostri Cassanesi su l’esempio ricevuto stanno perfezionando quest’arte, da essi prima non ben conosciuta”.

La presenza della pianta di olivo nel territorio cassanese, dunque ha radici molto lontane. L’affermarsi della coltura è stato favorito nei secoli dal clima tipicamente temperato di questo areale di coltivazione. E da questa tradizione centenaria, non poteva che nascere un olio extra vergine d’oliva di grande qualità. L’olio di Cassano, soprattutto quello proveniente dagli uliveti della frazione Doria, è monovarietale realizzato con l’oliva Grossa di Cassano, varietà iscritta al numero 121 dello Schedario Oleicolo Italiano.  Altra varietà di oliva autoctono è la “Tondina”, una delle cultivar più diffuse nel territorio. Quello che si producce nel territorio cassanese è un olio dalle proprietà organolettiche eccezionali:
Vista: giallo dorato intenso con delicate nuance verdoline;
Olfatto: fruttato di leggera o media intensità: Complesso e armonico, dotato di eleganti sentori fruttati di mela bianca e note vegetali di erbe fresche falciate a ricordo di frutta secca;
Gusto: fruttato di leggera o media intensità. Ricco di toni verdi di erbe balsamiche e note di mandorla dolce in chiusura. Amaro e piccante contenuti ed equilibrati. In Calabria ci sono tre tipi di olio extravergine d’oliva riconosciuti DOP, uno di questi è il “DOP Brutio” localizzata proprio nella fascia della Sibaritide, delle colline prepolliniche, della valle del Crati e delle colline joniche presilane. Eccellenza nella produzione di olio D.O.P. Bruzio-Sibaritide è l’Oleificio Gabro srl con sede a Lauropoli, azienda leader nel settore biologico per qualità e capacità produttiva. Per tutti questi motivi, Cassano All’Ionio è entrata a pieno titolo nel novero delle “Città dell’Olio d’Italia“, l’Associazione Nazionale che tra i suoi compiti principali, tra l’altro, ha quello di divulgare la cultura dell’olivo e dell’olio di oliva di qualità; tutelare e promuovere l’ambiente e il paesaggio olivicolo; diffondere la storia dell’olivicoltura; garantire il consumatore attraverso la valorizzazione delle denominazioni di origine.

ENOTRIA “TERRA DEL VINO”

Enotria, “terra del vino”, così era chiamata la Calabria anticamente. La millenaria storia del vino di Calabria inizia con l’approdo sulla costa di Sibari, Crotone e Locri di numerosi coloni greci intorno al VIII-VII sec. a.C. Certo, anche le civiltà esistenti in Calabria erano dedite alla coltivazione della vite, una viticoltura rudimentale che vedeva ogni famiglia produrre “il suo vino” per soddisfare le proprie necessità. Ma furono i coloni ellenici a portare alcuni vitigni dalla madrepatria e, grazie alla loro grande esperienza come viticoltori, che si incominciò a parlare su suolo italico di produzione vitivinicola. Ben presto divenne molto importante la produzione vinicola nella Magna Grecia. Il “Krimisa”, prodotto nella sibaritide e nel crotonese diventò addirittura il vino ufficiale dei “Giochi di Olimpia”, ossia era il vino che era dato agli atleti vincitori delle gare olimpiche. Alcuni reperti archeologici fanno ipotizzare che in tale periodo furono costruiti degli “enodotti” con tubi in terracotta che partivano dalle colline di Sibari fino ad arrivare al porto dove il vino veniva depositato in apposite anfore, anch’esse di terracotta, e direttamente imbarcato per varie destinazioni. La fervente coltivazione e la produzione viticola del periodo sono accertate dalle “Tavole di Eraclea” dove si legge: “Un terreno coltivato a vite aveva un valore sei volte superiore a quello di un terreno coltivato a cereali”.  Il Gaglioppo coltivato sul Monte di Cassano, vitigno a bacca rossa, rientra nell’elenco dei vitigni autoctoni calabresi insieme con: il Greco di Bianco, il Magliocco Canino, Montonico, il Nerello, il Guardavalle, il Pecorello Bianco, il Greco Nero, il Prunesta. Il Gaglioppo, o meglio il Magliocco Canino o Arvino, si coltiva nei comuni che sorgono alle falde meridionali del Massiccio del Pollino e, a Cassano All’Ionio come a Civita, Frascineto, Castrovillari, Saracena, con questo vitigno si produce il vino “Pollino” a Denomizione di Origine Controllata.   Il Pollino DOC è un vino ottenuto da vitigni che maturano tra la fine di Settembre e i primi di Ottobre. La fermentazione del mosto avviene con la tecnica della vinificazione in rosso, cioè a contatto con l’uvaccia ottenuta dalle parti solide dell’uva come la buccia e vinaccioli. Il Pollino Doc è tra i vini maggiormente diffusi della Calabria, molto apprezzato anche sul versante lucano del Massiccio del Pollino, e sulla costa tirrenica calabrese. Il Pollino DOC ha colore rosso rubino, il profumo intenso e fruttato con aroma di prugne e ribes, mentre il sapore risulta abbastanza secco e sapido. Secondo il disciplinare di produzione la versione base del Pollino Doc deve mantenere una gradazione minima totale di 12,5%, mentre la tipologia Superiore, che si ottiene dopo due anni almeno di invecchiamento in botte, deve avere una gradazione non inferiore al 13%.

LE CLEMENTINE IGP DELLA PIANA DI SIBARI

Le Clementine della Piana di Sibari hanno conquistato la denominazione IGP, Indicazioni Geografiche Protette. Si tratta del prestigioso marchio di origine che l’Unione Europea attribuisce a quei prodotti agricoli e alimentari per i quali una determinata qualità, la reputazione o un’altra caratteristica, dipende dal luogo geografico d’origine e la cui produzione, trasformazione e/o elaborazione avvengono in un’area geografica determinata. Le Clementine sono frutti che nascono dall’incrocio di un arancio amaro del tipo Granito e un mandarino del tipo Avana. Appartiene al genere Citrus, è sempre verde ed è una pianta molto robusta. Per crescere e svilupparsi rigogliosamente – e soprattutto per portare a maturazione i propri frutti – l’albero di clementine ha bisogno di un clima che sia compreso da 13°C e i 30°C e teme fortemente temperature inferiori allo 0°C. Un nemico giurato di questo agrume ibrido, infatti, è rappresentato da una temperatura superiore ai 38°C, soprattutto in concomitanza di elevata umidità. Alcuni ritengono che a innestarlo per primo sia stato padre Clément Rodier di Missenrghin, direttore di un orfanotrofio in Algeria nella città di Orano. Ma le versioni non sono univoche e sono in molti a ritenere che più probabilmente l’innesto sia avvenuto nell’estremo est asiatico e che, solo successivamente, l’albero sia stato coltivato in Algeria. La sua coltivazione in Italia iniziò con delle piantine erroneamente presenti in una fornitura di piantine di arance e prese piede nel nostro Paese intorno agli anni 30 dello scorso secolo, ma è solo intorno agli anni 50 che la Regione Calabria dimostrò di avere tutte le caratteristiche per la coltivazione di questo frutto dolce, succoso, dalla buccia molto sottile e privo di semi. Il suo clima temperato e costante e la composizione del terreno, calcareo misto ad argilla, dei 52 comuni calabresi in cui si coltivano le clementine, forniscono un habitat naturale e ideale, tanto da consentire una maturazione precoce dei frutti rispetto a tutte le altre regioni della nostra penisola. Da ottobre e fino alla fine di febbraio, la Calabria produce quasi l’80% di tutta la produzione nazionale. E quando si parla di Clementine di Calabria, si parla soprattutto di quelle con il marchio IGP prodotte nella Piana di Sibari. E’ qui, infatti, che si concentra la maggior produzione insieme all’area di Lamezia Terme. Nella Piana di Sibari si estendono le coltivazioni di questi fantastici alberelli, dalle foglie lanceolate e dalla chioma di colore verde intenso, fra cui spiccano i frutti colorati di un arancio acceso. Disposti in file ordinate, gli alberi di Clementine conferiscono alle piccole alture l’aspetto di chiome sapientemente pettinate, un piacere per gli occhi oltre che per il palato.

 

Il Riso di Sibari

IL RISO DELLA PIANA DI SIBARI

Nu piatt i ris, n’ura i panza tis”, ossia un piatto di riso si digerisce velocemente: questo è quanto usa dire un cassanese quando a tavola trova un bel piatto di riso fumante.  Il riso di Sibari è un cereale che si produce da una pianta erbacea annuale chiamata Oryza sativa, probabilmente scoperta circa 4000 anni prima della nascita di Cristo in Cina, proprio nei pressi della catena montuosa dell’Himalaya e da lì si diffuse poi in Medio Oriente, in Africa e in Europa e che secondo alcune fonti storiche è transitato proprio dal sud dell’Italia, ecco perché la sua atipica presenza sul territorio calabrese. Nella Piana di Sibari ci sono oltre 600 ettari di terreno coltivati a riso, numero che è destinato a crescere notevolmente, giacché questo riso si è conquistato una bella fetta di mercato e una totale fiducia da parte dei consumatori sparsi un po’ ovunque.
Quello di Sibari è un riso che il resto delle aree interessate alla coltivazione di questo prodotto invidiano molto poiché possiede delle particolari caratteristiche organolettiche dovute proprio alla tipologia di terreno naturalmente presente in Calabria e al suo ottimo microclima.  Inoltre, il Riso di Sibari oltre ad essere coltivato in questo territorio sino dagli inizi degli anni ’50, è anche lavorato artigianalmente, mediante una sbramatura leggera e poco invasiva, capace di garantire un miglior apporto nutrizionale, un sapore più deciso e intenso, una resa superiore ma soprattutto una migliore tenuta alla cottura. Fino al 2006 il riso di Sibari era rivenduto ai produttori del nord Italia, oggi invece i coltivatori locali ne gestiscono l’intera fase produttiva dalla semina al confezionamento passando infine per la vendita, consentendo così il controllo completo di tutto il ciclo produttivo, per garantire ai consumatori finali un prodotto totalmente calabrese e con qualità e caratteristiche superiori rispetto alle altre varietà di riso presenti sul mercato.

Queste condizioni hanno generato un Carnaroli che non scuoce, un integrale che conserva tutte le proprietà organolettiche, un “aromatico” che sprigiona profumi intensi e un “Nero” che traduce nel linguaggio del gusto le note armoniche delle sue origini orientali. Alcuni dicono che tutte queste qualità sono frutto di un solo fattore: tanto sole che solo la Piana di Sibari può dare.
In commercio esistono, infatti, numerosissime tipologie di riso che trovano la loro collocazione sul mercato, in base alle abitudini e ai gusti dei consumatori ma soprattutto in base al loro utilizzo finale, dal momento che solo in Italia se ne consumano annualmente circa otto chilogrammi pro capite. Il riso di Sibari è particolarmente adatto per la preparazione di: risotti, minestre, timballi, crocchette, arancini, insalate ma risulta anche ideale per la preparazione di alcuni dolci e può essere consumato al naturale o poco condito. Allo stesso tempo, si presta benissimo per accompagnare carne, pesce, frutti di mare, uova, formaggi e latticini, cereali, tuberi, leguminose, semi oleosi, ortaggi, frutti, cacao e cioccolato, marmellate, miele e i condimenti più adatti sono: olio, burro, salsa di soia, erbe aromatiche, zafferano, curcuma, zenzero, peperoncino, pepe, curry, zucchero, vaniglia, cannella e pertanto, può essere usato sia per ricette salate sia per ricette dolci.

RISO MAGISA

Fra le varie tipologie ricordiamo il “Nero di Sibari“, riso integrale molto pregiato dall’intenso profumo e colore scurissimo grazie alla ricchezza di pigmenti e antiossidanti naturali. A questo si aggiunge il riso di Sibari “Magisa” in versione integrale, anche questo naturalmente ricco di vitamine, fibre e sali minerali. L’azienda è in grado di proporre al consumatore un riso di altissima qualità  grazie in parte alle capacità di coltivazione, e in larga parte alle condizioni pedoclimatiche che la Piana di Sibari può dare, con un mix di terreni salmastri e di vicinanza dal mare, a pochi chilometri dalle risaie.

RISO MASSERIA FORNARA

Quando si parla di riso di Sibari non si può ignorare l’Azienda agricola “Masseria Fornara” della famiglia Perciaccante. La coltivazione del riso, abbandonata negli anni ’60 per gli alti costi della manodopera e la mancanza di un’adatta meccanizzazione, è stata ripresa nel 1984 da Pietro, discendente dello stesso Pietro che fondò l’azienda, su un’area di 60 ettari. Dopo i primi anni di coltivazione di riso da seme, molto apprezzato dai sementieri del nord, e poi di riso da pila, nel 2006, l’azienda ha deciso di lavorare e commercializzare con il proprio marchio il prodotto “Riso Masseria Fornara”.Nel mese di ottobre 2017 la Masseria Fornara di Cassano All’Ionio, produttrice del “Riso della Piana di Sibari” è stata inserita tra le 15 famiglie italiane del riso all’interno del prestigioso volume “Le Famiglie del riso” di Giuseppe Pozzi, Direttore de “Il Risicoltore”, il mensile dell’Ente Nazionale Risi.

IL RISO DELLA PIANA DI SIBARI, RICONOSCIMENTO NAZIONALE ALLA MASSERIA FORNARA

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